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Post by irocvirrilli on Jul 31, 2007 23:27:20 GMT -5
Well as jim and Al witnessed my car is takin a crap on me right now. I changed the spark plug wires, and the IAC, and tried that reset thingy and didn't get a SES light or any codes thrown, nor did i get anything when i adjusted the idle speed. Then i put a new tps on, but have yet to properly adjsut it, but if that doesn't work, what can i do?The main problem the car is having is stalling or backfiring hard, so i have to rev it at stoplights or rolling to a stop, but driving if i keep the powerband at right around 2000 rpms the car works fine. All i want to know is the car ran perfect before i left for new york, and the car sat untouched for around two weeks, then i get home ,jump it, and drive it for less then a day and it starts back firing nad getting a total dead miss. Next weekend i'm completely pulling the the TPI system apart to give it a full cleaning and gonna paint it along with my valve covers, but i want it runnin right before then, os i cna put it back together correctly then. Any and all help and suggestions are more then aprreciated, thanks fellas
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Post by kevaroo on Aug 1, 2007 13:40:29 GMT -5
You think maybe it just needs to clear its throat i mean thats all my car really needed.
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 1, 2007 14:02:38 GMT -5
i thought about a long highway run but once it's up to 60 or 70 i get no problems, maybe a little lag but thats all, the car runs fine once i'm outta first, but starting and stopping is shot to hell
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Post by Jim on Aug 1, 2007 17:03:46 GMT -5
The reason may be its so dirty. It may not have been your IAC, we got your car to run on it's own after cleaning just the throttle and IAC replaced.
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Post by Lucid on Aug 3, 2007 13:17:27 GMT -5
Check your connections at the TPS and the MAF connector. Also if you can find some TV cleaner or Electronics Cleaner (no residue, safe for electronics components): spray the inside of the maf sensor.
Also find the relay for your MAF sensor and disconnect the MAF and spray it with the Electronics Cleaner.
Then put dielectric grease (bulb grease) on the connectors on the maf sensor, tps sensor and the maf relay.
Loose or corroded connectors or partially working relays can cause a voltage drop and may or may not set a code. The ECM checks for a normal RANGE of voltages and it may be low but not low enough for the ECM to think there is a problem.
If it stumbles and the RPM's drop, then it catches and runs fine, i am thinking maybe the MAF sensor connection, relay or sensor itself.
The TPS sensor has to be set engine off, ignition on... at approximately .54 Volts. This is the "idle", throttle at rest condition. If its set incorrectly, the idle will be unusually high or low, usually.
A bad TPS will usually cause a very high idle that will not come down at all, or a car that will not idle at all. When mine went out, it would just idle at 3000RPM and stay there.
Let me know what happens...
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 3, 2007 23:44:32 GMT -5
i tried using my voltmeter at work and we got one wire to read like .49 at the highest, and the others were at like .1, i dunno if i used the tester wrong, but it dies at idle and does all the TPS symptoms that are stated. Loss of idle, or increased idle, bogging or loss of power when throttle is pushed down, delayed response when i hit the pedal to accelerate, and the one wierd thing is that when i fight the boggin and it jumps to around 3,000 i get it drive fine and i drive like brandon so shifting at 4,500 is comfortable but like coming to a stop i have to throw it in neutral, use on foot to break and the other to keep tapping the throttle to keep the car on. If anyone has a voltmeter and jsut like twenty minutes on sunday ot help me adjust this thing it would be greatly appreciated, i'm taking it all apart for cleaning except for the throttle body since thats the touchy part, but i'm gonna clean everything on the TPI system next saturday at work with the parts cleaning machine, so who ever helps me, gets like a free tranny fluid change. Jim, you already get one for last weekend, but yea if you can help me brian then that would be great, i can try and meet you some where since my buddy will be with me and i'll have more then one form of transportation
these were my instructions Normally Aspirated cars:
Remove the throttle body from the car. Remove the two Phillips head screws that attach the TPS to the throttle body. Install the new TPS and insert the mounting screws. Do not tighten the screws until the adjustment is complete. Hold the throttle in the closed position and turn the TPS until the internal stop is felt and tighten the mounting screws. Check the adjustment by turning the throttle toward the open position. An audible click should be hear as soon as the throttle starts to open. Slowly close the throttle until it is fully closed. Do not force the throttle closed. Allow it to close under spring pressure only. Just prior to going fully closed, an audible click should again be heard. If the click is not heard, readjust the switch. Install the throttle body.
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Post by Lucid on Aug 4, 2007 0:42:04 GMT -5
What you need to do is to get three wires about 2 inches long, and get a knife and strip part of the insulation off on the same place on all three wires. You strip the ends off, both ends and insert each end of each individual wire into the tps itself.
It should have three connector sockets and then you take the other end and insert each one individually into the connector itself. Basically you are jumpering each wire.
The reason you stripped off some insulation is for testing with the multimeter. ( Its a bitch getting the wires to stay put, so i usually use electrical tape and make a crude little harness)
One is hot from the ECM, one wire is ground and the other is the varying voltage coming from the TPS.
Turn the ignition on but do not turn on the car.
One wire will read 5V and one wire will read .XX somthing volts, and will vary when you change the throttle setting. The other is ground.
If your TPS is adjustable, you loosen the two set screws enough for you to turn the TPS and then you turn it until you get .54V with the ignition on and the engine off. ( i think its the middle wire)
Then you tighten and recheck the voltage, you might have to do it a couple times because when you tighten you create a torque and the tps might turn a bit.
Now here is the fun part. You have to turn the throttle very very smoothly and slowly and watch the voltage go smoothly upwards and downwards. If you get spots where the voltage lags and suddenly jumps, then you have a dead spot. It is very difficult to do this so you have to repeat trials.
If the hot wire coming in from the ECM is less than 5V you have a problem in the wiring or the connector or the actual ECM.
Call me tomorrow if you need help, i am off tomorrow
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 5, 2007 0:07:31 GMT -5
i was at ozzfest all day today, but if you're off on sunday, i'll make the car limp over to your place with my buddy and we can do your tranny work , and then slap in the new one, and then try this jumper wire stuff.
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Post by Lucid on Aug 8, 2007 2:38:11 GMT -5
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 8, 2007 12:55:29 GMT -5
sweet maybe this willfix the 84
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 8, 2007 22:27:59 GMT -5
fixed it =)
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Post by Lucid on Aug 8, 2007 22:45:01 GMT -5
What was wrong with it??
Spill it....
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Post by z28camaroracer on Aug 8, 2007 23:32:46 GMT -5
After we got the module and pick up coil in it would still crank and sputter, disconnected the maf and got it started, so I am thinking that it is the maf sensor or the wiring for the maf causing the problem, Mick is going to look it to the wiring this weekend.
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Post by Lucid on Aug 8, 2007 23:50:03 GMT -5
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Post by irocvirrilli on Aug 9, 2007 12:00:58 GMT -5
it's most likely the pig tail, so i'll try and purchase that as soon as i can
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