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Post by Lucid on Nov 12, 2008 12:20:18 GMT -5
Anyhow, sometimes it starts sometimes it wont. Even after the new ignition switch.
The alarm brain and most of the peripherals to it have been disconnected, only the wiring remains. The starter interrupt seems to have two main wires coming to it and they get hot to the touch in just a few seconds.
When I tried to bypass the relay with a paperclip, the paperclip burned my finger tips almost immediately.
It seems like it is getting power, it seems almost as if there is a voltage drop somewhere that is keeping the solenoid from getting enough power.
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84maroonta
Full Member
350 .30 over, Vortec heads, 10:1 flat top pistons, Edelbrock RPM AIRGAP T5tranny w/ 3.73's
Posts: 103
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Post by 84maroonta on Nov 12, 2008 15:28:00 GMT -5
Have you bypassed the alarm or just pull the brain? You could also have a short in that wire.
I probably wouldnt have tried the whole paper clip thing....... the paper clip is not insulated. I would recomend to pull out a VOM and check how many volts are going through that wire thats getting hot.
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Post by Lucid on Nov 12, 2008 15:42:08 GMT -5
Have you bypassed the alarm or just pull the brain? You could also have a short in that wire. I probably wouldnt have tried the whole paper clip thing....... the paper clip is not insulated. I would recomend to pull out a VOM and check how many volts are going through that wire thats getting hot. I pulled the brain out and left the starter interrupt socket. I tried to bypass the relay and thats when I noticed that the wires going into the relay are getting really hot. Heat means theres amperage going through that wire. I can restart it several times before it just wont crank over anymore. I think I need an extra wire going to the starter (solenoid). I have a nice VOM, but I need to get some batteries.
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84maroonta
Full Member
350 .30 over, Vortec heads, 10:1 flat top pistons, Edelbrock RPM AIRGAP T5tranny w/ 3.73's
Posts: 103
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Post by 84maroonta on Nov 13, 2008 14:00:56 GMT -5
get batteries, and check that wire. You physically need to bypass that stater interupt. You need to bypass it with a correct guage wire. something as small as a paperclip cant pass through the amount of current that you need. i recoment saudering it back to how the factory car came.
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Post by Lucid on Nov 13, 2008 18:21:59 GMT -5
I just bought a new one at Harbor Freight, its not a automatic voltage sensing but i am seeing .25V on the 200 scale when I punctured through the two starter interrupt wires.
I decided to rip that POS aftermarket harness out and have been unplugging all the stupid connectors that they "T"ed into the factory wires.
I am going to cut those two wires and install a butt connector for now, so the thing starts. It seems to be starting alot better without all that extra resistance to the starter circuit.
I will post up when I finish tonight.
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Post by Lucid on Jan 24, 2009 2:38:08 GMT -5
Anyhow, I spliced the yellow starter wire awhile back and it worked fine for a little bit. Then same thing, it just would not start.
The other day I climbed under there and saw the new ignition switch jammed in there by the ALDL connector.
I dropped the column and the bastard moved the back cable from the old switch to the new switch and left the old one still attached to the column.
He said he had trouble getting the connector off but I didnt know that meant he had to half ass the job.
So I popped the connector off and removed the 2 hex bolts and one screw keeping it there and popped the old switch off. It wasnt that bad, he made it seem like it was a real pain.
Now my question is, where is the column rod supposed to be and where is the hole on the ignition switch supposed to be?
I guess if I put the key at the UNLOCK position and then stick a screw driver in the ignition switch and turn it to where?
I am thinking its the middle detent right before the run setting?
It seems to have start, run, middle position, another click and then the last click is the accessory.
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Post by Lucid on Jan 24, 2009 22:14:05 GMT -5
I got it, starts up two times faster now.
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Post by z28camaroracer on Jan 25, 2009 21:19:00 GMT -5
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Post by Lucid on Jan 26, 2009 3:58:03 GMT -5
Yeah this starter circuit is really pissing me off. Its a real pain in the butt for it to startup 3 times and then act like its constipated the 4th time.
Pins 85 and 30 are both fused inline with the battery?
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Post by z28camaroracer on Jan 26, 2009 21:47:17 GMT -5
yes and its switched on the ground side.
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