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Post by 86fbird on Dec 21, 2008 12:57:53 GMT -5
I got my 350 all bolted and wired up but i cant get the thing to fire up.. I got spark, i got good engine groung. I got fuel. brand new carb. timing seems to be lined up correctly. It makes a single pop thru the carb then nothing else. i charged up the battery last night and was wondering if the the started is not shimmed right, would that cause the engine to rotate slower than normal? Im gonna try that today.. Another thing is the distrubitor im using is a stock fbird 305 computer controlled deal. i hooked it up to the computer but i have no sensors whatsoever. dopnt know if that changes things.. well i gotta tow it later on today to my house then im gonna work on it. any body with any advice?
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Post by z28camaroracer on Dec 21, 2008 13:10:29 GMT -5
check your pm's
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Post by 86fbird on Dec 21, 2008 13:13:16 GMT -5
pm's?
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Post by 86fbird on Dec 21, 2008 14:43:08 GMT -5
Im still a tard... what is a pm?
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Post by Lucid on Dec 21, 2008 17:56:16 GMT -5
Your private messages. There is writing up there in the top right when you log in that says Hey, Tard, you have 1 messages , 1 is new. Click on the red link and it will take you to your inbox. There should be a link going to the Inbox underneath the banner as well.
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Post by Lucid on Dec 21, 2008 17:59:55 GMT -5
Ok I just finished reading your post.
You are trying to run a computer controlled Q-jet or an old school before computer's were around type of carb?
If its a computer controlled Q-jet the thing is not going to run properly without being hooked up to the ECM (computer). You are going to have to find a old school distributor with vacuum advance.
But read Thomas's PM, he is pretty smart about carb setups.
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Post by 86fbird on Dec 21, 2008 20:46:45 GMT -5
installed is a edelbrock 600 cfm (pn 1406). Alamo performance seems to be closed on saturday. I needed to buy a module for my mallory unilite distrubitor, that was why i installed the 305 distrubutor. Just getting eager to hear this bird run.. shit that reminds me i need to get a ballast resistor.. hey, side note... how many ohms do i need to bring voltage down 2 volts? sorry about the pm confusion.. i am having a tard moment that is lasting a whole weekend..
THE BIRD WILL LIVE AGAIN!!
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Post by 86fbird on Dec 30, 2008 22:42:33 GMT -5
ok so the bird is still isnt breathing... time for some cpr. I put a timing light to it and determined that no 1 cyl is firing where it is supposed to. (doing this while sick off my ass and had to stop for the day(went to get tatoo instead)) i waited a till the next day and tried to turn it over with no luck. at one point i had puffs of flame comming out the carb. though i might of flooded it so i took a break (still sick off my ass(then broke up with my girlfriend and took a mad trip in my dakota to tennesee to see another girl only to realize i still loved my x and never nailed that other chick plus got speeding ticket on the way back)) I got out there yesterday and tried again. All i did was turn the motor. didnt hear no fire of puffs. Turned motor around at least 3-4 times. went under hood and did a 180 on the plug wires. no change. (then spent next 6 hours arguing with x girlfriend and having mad makeup sex) I got home today and looked at it but decided there wasnt enough day light left to even start. Dont want yalll to think im turning down help at all. just been so crazy over hadnt really had time for the f bird.
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Post by 86fbird on Dec 30, 2008 23:00:47 GMT -5
ok so for the new stuff I got a ballast resistor and a module for my unilite distributor. I ran pink wire off ign switch to ballast, then split on other side to coil and distrubitor. resistance is 1.3 ohms and voltage reads like 3. something with everything hooked up and 12.5 with coil and dist. disconnected. ? I called alamo performance and at first they said that voltage drop was normal with everything hooked up, then said it should normally read 10 vdc. Also said something about a possible short if low voltage reading without coil/dist connected.. So im gonna get out there on the 1st and devote my whole day to it and make it run.. I cant stand that it sitting on the side of the road right now. (Had to get it out of x gf's garage due to pending breakup"(of which i am having mad makeup sex at the momment)) The game plan is to retrace all my wiring and make sure i did everything right, from batt + to batt -. everything. the only thing i cant see is the timing chain sprockets. I know i lined them up where the dots were pointing twords eachother.. everything i know tells me this is correct. But then it could be like that time i learned a m1151 uparmored hmmwv is a front wheel drive.......
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Post by 86fbird on Jan 1, 2009 4:00:25 GMT -5
I am still a tard... I was out trying to crank it after replacing a battery cable (+ positive side to starter, it was crap any way) Well my roommate walks up and says it sounded funny... well he's right.. the motor doesnt crank, it turns.. hard to explain in text but i will try.. you know when you crank a engine, it always has a pause in the rotation.. rrr rrr rrr .... well its not doing that. its turning at a steady speed, as if i have no compression.... Is it possible to screw up on the timing chain install? Im gonna pop out a spark plug and see if i can determine if the setup up is correct, if i cant then im pulling out that waterpump for a gander... HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE
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Post by z28camaroracer on Jan 1, 2009 22:57:24 GMT -5
It sounds like you have washed out the cylinders with fuel or installed the cam out of time. If it was fuel you can pull all the spark plugs and hold a match up to the hole and burn out the fuel. Make sure you have a fire extingusher or water hose near by just in case. I an off this satur day if you want some help.
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Post by 86fbird on Jan 3, 2009 9:17:41 GMT -5
ITS ALIVE!!!
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Post by 86fbird on Jan 3, 2009 9:22:51 GMT -5
Woo Hoo.. finally got iT! The tard wins one lol.. Turns out i over torqued my rocker arm nuts. Didnt realize it till tore it down to the timing chain checking that out. Gos i knew it was sonthing simple..SOB fired right on up once i backed on the valves.. Couldnt find torqe spec for the rocker arm nuts. Piece of paper i printed off says 50 ft-lbs but that was too much.. i backed down to 25 then loosened in 1/4 turn increments (8 turns) Doesnt rattle too bad but my buddy said he could hear some valve tap in there. anybody got a good spec for me on that??
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Post by 86fbird on Jan 3, 2009 12:22:48 GMT -5
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Post by Lucid on Jan 3, 2009 13:16:05 GMT -5
50 ft/lbs of torque is for the Rocker Studs that go into the head!!!! If you have the valve covers off, one way you can do it is to set the valve lash with the engine running. I like to set the valve cover right next to the head to catch the oil and set the rocker arms that way. You have to back the nut off until you hear the rocker start clacking and then tighten up to zero lash, (where it makes no noise and starts to grip). From there Haynes says tighten an additional 1 turn and Chilton says an additional 1 1/2. I think I usually do something like 1/2 to 3/4 turn because Chilton and Haynes arent always on the money. This will at least get the car running for you. Everyone does it differently, some people just bump the engine over. www.hotrodders.com/forum/torque-specs-chevy-350-a-88055.htmlwww.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91104
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