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Post by gunslinger on Apr 3, 2009 0:11:32 GMT -5
i have a 89 iroc z28 with 5.7 tpi engine, 700r4 trans that i just bought in terrible condition. i overhauled the engine and installed it and now the injectors don't get fuel. the engine cranks, i'm getting spark, but no fuel flow. i replaced the coil, distributor module, and it doesn't start. i was thinking of bypassing the vats system with the resistor mod. thanks for the help.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 3, 2009 2:19:11 GMT -5
Yeah I seen VATS keep a car from starting before.
Check the fuse under the dash for the Fuel Pump, check the fuse on the passengers side fender to see if the injector fuse is ok (it will be by itself in its own weatherpack connector).
When you turn the key does the fuel pump relay and fuel pump prime?
I would start with VATS first and then try to figure out what you forgot to plug back in around the harness connectors, ESC etc etc.
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Post by gunslinger on Apr 3, 2009 8:13:15 GMT -5
the fuel pump feeds the regulator because fuel leaks out of the valve when pressed, but i don't hear the pump run for those seconds when the ignition is cranked over. i have not seen that fuse by the pass side fender, what color is it, exactly where is it.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 3, 2009 13:10:35 GMT -5
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Post by gunslinger on Apr 3, 2009 13:51:22 GMT -5
thanks, what i did today was connect the brown/white wire coming from the fuel pump and connected it to the fuse box for a constant hot source. now the fuel pump runs. i will try to start it later today. i also did the vats bypass with the resistor and that works fine.
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Post by gunslinger on Apr 4, 2009 23:54:42 GMT -5
:(o.k. today i bought a new ecm and that did not fix my injectors. they still don't get a signal to fire fuel. what else can cause that. the injectors are new accel 24 lb units.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 7, 2009 3:57:50 GMT -5
You are going to have to isolate the VATS problem before continuing to invest money in it. Look at the diagram again, there are two Injector banks and they both have fuses. It says the power side is hot in run on Pink/Black wires. The VATS decoder shows that it is also powered by a Pink/Black wire but it looks like it runs off the ECM/Crank fuse. Does the SES light come on when you turn the key? When you turn the key, the fuel pump relay gets closed and if the oil pressure switch is working it should close as well, either one will permit the fuel pump to run. If you have spark, that means the EST is working, the EST is sending a reference signal to the ECM. I would concentrate on the injector wiring and that stupid VATS system before moving on. You can disable VATS in the programming but you have to buy a memcal adapter and burn a chip that disables the VATS setting so the ECM ignores it. The other way is to try a VATS simulator device or make sure that your bypass is exactly the right resistance. Has the car ever ran since you owned it? BTW, even if you do the resistor mod, if the module is bad it still might not work: vats.likeabigdog.com/
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Post by gunslinger on Apr 12, 2009 23:03:14 GMT -5
thanks, i'm going to troubleshoot the injector wiring to the two fuses to see if the wire is shorted or broken. the wire fuse connector on the pass side is not there. the previous owner cut it and soldered it direct. i will repair that and place a 20 amp fuse inline. i can't find the vats module only a cruise control module i thought was the vats. i also have the fuel pump relay wiring i have to fix also.
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Post by z28camaroracer on Apr 13, 2009 18:41:04 GMT -5
The vats module is on the side of the ac case on the driver side you may have to remove the secondary fuse box to see it, it has one connector and is almost right over the transmission tunnel.
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