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Post by 1983Chimaera on Feb 16, 2012 5:10:20 GMT -5
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Post by Lucid on Feb 18, 2012 22:31:53 GMT -5
Welcome to the site! You did the 4th gen interior swap yourself? Did you do the TPI tuning for the LT4 hot cam yourself?
The club is currently going through a transition phase, as there are a lot of members who quit the 3rd gen scene and some just selling their cars or just disappearing.
I been meeting a bunch of 3rd gen owners that want to get together though.
I am looking for quite a few parts. I am trying to get my 87 IROC ready to paint and be a driver.
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Post by 1983Chimaera on Feb 20, 2012 21:36:12 GMT -5
I did the 4th gen interior swap between Oct 2011and Jan 2012. The dash and center console took only about a week as far at fitment and getting the shifter at the proper level and placement, and modifying the firewall for the 4th gen heater ducting. The other 2 1/2 months was spent nightly completely rebuilding and modifying the 4th gen harness (entire dash, engine, and body harness, minus tail light harness). I removed all the ABS, SIR, emissions, and some of the unused circuits such as coolant level indicator, etc, and added disconnects throughout as to make the 4th gen harness modular for maintenance or upgrades. The donor harness came out in 4 pieces (no way to remove one intact with out a sawzall!) This meant every single wire had to be traced, tagged, soldered, heat shrink tubed, and tested for continuity. I also completely rebuilt the underhood relay box for my application, removing some circuits and retasking others. It was a LONG process, but the end result is a harness 100% gremlin free and custom run in both length and application, and allowed me to hide my harness in the fenders and along the valve covers under the TPI runners. As for the TPI tuning, I started with a factory TPI Firebird Formula tune uploaded by a member on the Megasquirt forums as a base tune, and have been tweaking it ever since. i have a pretty good tune now, but I really want to upgrade to MS-II and a wideband O2 sensor so I can autotune it properly. what parts are you looking for? I'm rebuilding an '88 IROC-Z currently, luckily it's 95% RPO correct, but a few small items need replacing from wear or breakage. I am going to deviate from the RPO paint code tho, as I really don't care to drive a Bright Red car, IROC or not...I'm thinking Corvette Medium Quasar Blue Metallic. Anyway, I do have a lot of small items, some extra manual crank door panels, and I always grab emblems whenever I find them. I do need to find a 85-92 Z28 hood, my IROC was purchased without one. I'm on Thirdgen.org, Camaro5 (not really a fan of the 5th gen cars, but it IS a San Antonio Camaro club, so, eh...I go to Biff Buzby's on occasion, haven't in a while due to schedule. I live a few blocks below it, so it's not the distance, just the crap in life that pops up with sh*tty timing. I have noticed more 3rd gens out driving lately, and it would be nice to get a 3rd gen dedicated club up and running. There have been plenty of times I've pulled my hair out trying to fix issues on my car or just bounce ideas off someone and not really had an interested ear. Let me know if I can do more to help get things going again!
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Post by Lucid on Feb 20, 2012 23:32:18 GMT -5
Thats pretty amazing to have done all the stuff you have to that car. I do the tuning via the '165 ECM and tunerpro on my TPI cars.
I am looking to redo the interior on my IROC. Its maroon inside and I want to swap it out for black. I have collected a few nice interior pieces like the door sills, and a few plastics but still missing a bunch of them. The headliner and visors need to be replaced. I am also looking for a posi rearend to put in it, because the 2.73 gears bite.
I just got my yellow Z28 back running again. The transmission still needs work though, I think it might be the 4th gear servo.
I really need help with redoing the silicone on the hatch on my IROC, that thing leaks water inside everytime it rains! I bought some clear silicone in a big ass tube but I still need help keeping the hatch glass up and stuff.
I do miss bouncing ideas off of other members. We had 3 thirdgen owners living at one house a couple years ago. That was crazy.
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Post by 1983Chimaera on Feb 21, 2012 18:02:02 GMT -5
The 4th gen rear is a direct bolt in, as long as you have a decent floor jack it's a one person job. The only annoying part is the older cars have SAE brake line fittings, whereas the later cars and 4th gens use metric fittings. The '95 Z/28 rear I have has 3.23 gears and a positraction unit in it, and the disc brakes are huge. I replaced my master cylinder with one from a junkyard 4-wheel disc Firebird, but a Wilwood brake proportioning valve would work just as well. Don't feel bad about the transmission. The one in my Z/28 has been stuck in lockup since I bought the car. It kills my gas mileage, and since my MS-I doesn't have an idle air circuit I have to keep the throttle setting kicked up a little to makeup for the extra drag on the engine at idle, which keeps my in park idle closer to 1200-1300 rpm. I have a 4L60 (late TH700R4) that I've had pulled apart and cleaned for going on 4 years now, with a TCI Streetfighter rebuild kit for it, the TCI front and rear 5 pinion planetary gear sets, a Corvette 3-4 servo, 2200 RPM Corvette stall converter, and a shift kit...But I haven't the faintest idea of how to rebuild a 700R4! I have an excellent book by Cliff Ruggles on how to do it, but I just don't feel comfortable trying it myself knowing how easy it is to screw up the placement of just one check ball and scragging the whole thing. I have a friend with a rebuilt World Class T-5 he never installed that I'm thinking of putting in my Z/28 instead. If I ever do the TCI Streetfighter I think it will go in my IROC. If you need help with the hatch, let me know and if I'm free I'ld be happy to help. I had to rebuild the T-Top channels on my Z/28, they had rotted from years of neglect and water would pour in. My rear hatch has the pin on the passenger side constantly trying to back out, which cockeyes my hatch. It takes two people to fix, one to hold pressure forward on the hatch while the other climbs into the back and carefully taps the pin back into place. I don't have any black interior pieces, but I saw some, threshholds for sure, at Roosevelt U-Pull-It last Saturday. Just watch yourself, those guys are pretty bad about on-the-fly pricing, regardless of what their price lists say.
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Post by Lucid on Feb 21, 2012 22:53:34 GMT -5
I put a 9 bolt posi rear with disc brakes and 3.23 gears in my yellow Z28 and I was having fun with it last night. It really wakes up the engine. The only reason I don't want a 4th gen rear is because it sticks out.
I also put the 4L60 in my car in the garage and dont really want to do that again.
Lets make a hatch repair day. All issues hatch related.
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Post by 1983Chimaera on Feb 21, 2012 22:59:58 GMT -5
I've got one for you now...Car started acting up today, really hard to start, stutters, backfires, will fire with starting fluid but not stay running, when it does catch you have to pump the gas like crazy and even then it's barely stuttering and dies...let it sit 10 minutes and it starts and runs fine, then shut it off and it's a 50/50 chance of whether it will refuse to start again or fire right back up. I've checked EVERYTHING, no ideas. I swear I hear a vacuum leak around the dizzy, but damned if I can find one.
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Post by Lucid on Feb 21, 2012 23:24:51 GMT -5
If it starts with the starting fluid and runs then dies out immediately, then its fuel related. If you keep spraying starting fluid in the engine, turn it over, and it starts and runs, then dies, thats definitely fuel.
Is the car TPI or carb?
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Post by 1983Chimaera on Feb 21, 2012 23:31:32 GMT -5
modified TPI, I'm on yahoo as rx79gez8gundam, I can tell you more easily there and all the checks I've done
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