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Post by Jim on Mar 28, 2007 11:50:17 GMT -5
Does he do computer tuning? If so, i'd like to see his work. If it's really good, maybe we can work something out with this organization and maybe we could get him more business. Does he plan on anything bigger or just keep it out of his house and work on like 2 cars at a time?
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Post by Lucid on Apr 12, 2007 0:12:02 GMT -5
Yes i need help, don't have enough time to tackle all this work by myself right now with school.
BTW The alignment on the wheel i worked on has been a little off, and i loosened up the bolts at the strut tower mount and it settled and i just tightened them back down. I was looking down at the mount and its CRACKED almost all the way around on the inside where you cant really see it!!
I need to go to the JY and get some of those too....damn this car is high maintenance...
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Post by z28camaroracer on Apr 12, 2007 0:31:32 GMT -5
Dude its a thirdgen, they need constant tlc. lol ;D
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Post by Lucid on Apr 12, 2007 0:33:48 GMT -5
I been with women that cost less... and thats saying something.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 12, 2007 23:52:46 GMT -5
Thomas you mentioned that you can take some of the slop out of the steering gear by adjusting the worm gear. Just how do you go about doing that?
I see the allen or torx head and theres a nut around it, but how do you adjust it?
Both shock tower mounts have rubber isolators or something inside that the strut goes through, and they are both cracked. The drivers side is really bumpy, and after seeing theres not much holding up the strut, i can see why.
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Post by z28camaroracer on Apr 13, 2007 10:38:15 GMT -5
You hold the allen screw and brake the nut loose turn the allen screw a little and re tighten the nut and check the free play be careful not to go too far or when you are driving you will feel a pop as you go over the center line of the steering gear.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 20, 2007 14:35:48 GMT -5
Jim Thanks for the help the other day, you saved me like $140 from buying that overpriced Kent Moore Tool. The turnbuckle worked great at changing the camber with just a turn of the wrench. Got to jack it up to get to the tie rods and adjust the toe in.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 20, 2007 15:51:46 GMT -5
Thomas I read on thirdgen.org you are supposed to loosen the nut with a wrench and then turn the allen wrench in the middle CLOCKWISE holding the wrench in place. Turn it until its snug and then back off 90degrees. Then tighten up and check for slop.
What does it sound like when it binds? I am hearing a knock twice at two distinct places upon rotation of the wheel, but only when i turn the wheel counterclockwise. When i turn the wheel to the right its smooth like baby food.
I think that the centering of the wheel is off too, when i center the wheel, the wheels are both pointing to the left slightly.
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Post by Jim on Apr 20, 2007 16:38:43 GMT -5
Like baby food?...Anyone have children? Keep them away from Brian. I sometimes hear a noise when turning also, but very very rarely.
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Post by Lucid on Apr 23, 2007 23:04:20 GMT -5
I adjusted the sloppiness and it feels so much better now. Thanks Thomas
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Post by Lucid on May 3, 2007 14:33:38 GMT -5
I installed the new KYB strut mounts yesterday in about an hour. The difference is AMAZING....
These mounts have a circular bearing in the middle, it looks like a big ring and it spins. The bearing is surrounded by a large rubber bushing that dampens the force of the strut going up and down.
When you turn the wheel, the bearing actually spins in place in the middle and allows the wheels to turn smoothly. Old bearings and broken isolators/bushings bind and make it difficult to turn the wheels.
My bushing was actually broken on the driver's side and the strut was actually moving up and down inside the mount instead of being absorbed by the rubber bushing.
If your car bounces harshly in the front over even mild bumps you might want to check your struts and your strut mounts. Every car i saw in the junk yard had bushings that were cracked and starting to go bad. I only found one car that had nice mounts.
I will post pics later to show the area i am talking about.
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Post by Jim on May 3, 2007 15:01:21 GMT -5
My car actually rides really well. Going over bumps of course it isn't smooth like a newer car, but it isn't as bad as any thirdgen i've ever riden in. I do know that something up front needs replacing. I havn't been able to check yet but when going over speed bumps and my car gets to the bottom, once the car starts bouncing up and down up front, something is grinding pretty bad.
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Post by Lucid on May 3, 2007 15:31:20 GMT -5
Does one side bounce more than the other? I had a strut lose all its nitrogen gas once and one side would bounce normally and the other would flop around. Usually the car would look lopsided when parking on a flat surface.
Also remember to check the ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, center link.... etc etc.
The tie rods, you should not be able to twist/turn by hand very easily. If you can turn them through the full arc of travel by hand, they need replacing. (you might need to jack up the car to do this)
The ball joints, grab the tire/wheel and shake it hard and see how much the wheel wobbles. It should be pretty stiff. (you can check this with the car sitting on the ground)
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Post by Lucid on May 3, 2007 18:21:49 GMT -5
Driver's Side Strut Mount (Top View) Driver's Side Strut Mount (Bottom View - Removed from car)
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Post by Lucid on May 15, 2007 18:32:41 GMT -5
I think i finally figured out why the passenger side of the car is cursed. My girl and i were driving and every time we went over a speed bump, the fender would cut into the tire. I pulled over into a gas station and the fender was waaay too low, it was as if the strut was bad.
I jacked up the car, took off the wheel and noticed that the cotter pin came out, and the nut had backed off almost all the way off.
I removed the ball joint and installed a new one, but i couldnt get the cotter pin hole to line up with the holes in the nut. WTF!!!!
So i went to the other side to look at the ball joint and the nut was several threads down where the hole in the stud is. The passenger side: i tightened it down all the way past the hole in the stud. BINGO!!
I had an extra spindle from the LS1 brakes im making and i noticed that the hole in the spindle for the ball joint is FLAT, it has a flat surface for you to tighten the bolt down.
My spindle is rounded and has a bowl there instead of the flat surface, its so worn that the nut just burries itself inside the bowl.
Anyone have an extra passenger side spindle they want to sell??
I might have to bump up the ramp on getting that LS1 spindle ready because i need the car back on the road.
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