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Post by monkihead on Jun 2, 2010 10:23:04 GMT -5
since the new one is about an inch short and my pedals are in good condition. will it work if i switch the shaft that clamps to our pedals in the new clutch cylinder? it was surprisingly simple to dissasemble, but a pain to re-assemble. will i have dissengagement issues or will things be ok? wanted to save myself about 200$ since thats how much a adjustable one costs from willwood via summit goes for. it may not work, as the 93-02 have a 7/8's bore and the 88-92 have a 3/4 bore. you can make yours adjustable. you will need a die set, hack saw and a clevis/extension. SRT4 guys would make their wastegates adjustable to get more boost.
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Post by morbital on Jun 2, 2010 22:56:51 GMT -5
hey all.. i finally took off the old k member.. was surprised 6 bolts hold the entire steel k member. tomorrow i am planning on installing spohns nicely crafted k member and hope i have no issues. im planning that since im taking a hell of a lot of pics. i might place them on my myspace account and make it easier for all too see... im not good with website stuff.. i looked at the help page on how to post pics. but im not sure i got the patience for that yet.. so i guess that will do. i'll keep everyone posted and boy. i do wish my garage had A/C!! soaked by the end of the day.
monkihead-i wasn't aware of the different bores of the gen's. i've used the 4th gen clutch, the one that mounts on the firewall.. all i did was replace the rod that clamps to the clutch pedal.. everything is from the ls1. the piston, "c" clip, hoses and everything else... except that deatail. it reached the pedal and nothing else was modified, just the simple rod to reach!. we'll see right!! and man.. i hate srt4's, not that im starting anything.. its that i lost to 1 and my passion to one day get my revenge. hopefully in the drags. those little goats put like 300 something HP? my loss wasnt that bad tho. my little five oh lost about little over half a car lenght. stupid turbos..
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Post by morbital on Jun 2, 2010 23:02:50 GMT -5
oh yeah.. anyone know a good machine shop? i need to get my flyweel re-surfaced.. so if theres anyone who can help me out, id apreciate it!
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Post by morbital on Jun 7, 2010 21:59:43 GMT -5
I finally installed the k-member from spohn. It went in easily and with no problems!! The only pain in the ass was putting the springs back on.. I almost gave up and wanted to call a pro to take care of it. I somehow got lucky and managed to safely and properly install them thanks to a spring compressor going in the right place. It took me three days to get it right. Its all in!! The engine and tranny will go n after i paint the compartment.
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Post by Lucid on Jun 8, 2010 7:46:33 GMT -5
Yeah the springs are a pain. I didnt use a spring compressor, we used a crowbar to keep nudging it in while the A-arm was supported by a jack. The end of the coil spring goes in between the two alignment holes in the control arm.
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Post by monkihead on Jun 8, 2010 9:38:05 GMT -5
oh yeah.. anyone know a good machine shop? i need to get my flyweel re-surfaced.. so if theres anyone who can help me out, id apreciate it! I've gone to Service Parts & Machine Co on 731 Probandt Street. They cut your flywheel by lathe, not stone. it insures a true flat based on the flange. I know the feeling. One took out my tib back in the day. Then I joined the turbo frenzy and bought a supra. Just remember, there's always a bigger fish that comes along.
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Post by EricFormula350 on Jun 11, 2010 18:10:54 GMT -5
Morbital what kind of flywheel do you need? I have one in my garage that's for a 2 piece rear.
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Post by morbital on Jun 12, 2010 11:26:29 GMT -5
hey folks!! it's in! just slapped the engine in the car on thurs. pretty much the installing the engine was my biggest concern because of all the horror stories i heard of people dropping their engine on their car and crushing fenders and damaging their engines.. so my heart was pounding! it went in there nicely, the only issue i had was the last motor mount being bolted up. i havent worked on her since then. i had to take a break and a quick stich in my finger.. i did the mistake by placing my hand in the tilter bolt where the bridge was. i was trying to adjust the engine right and as i did, the tilter managed to bounce of its tracks and pinched my finger, it was gay! took a big bite of my skin and was deep enough that fat tissue could be seen. pretty crazy huh!! i guess i cursed myself for telling me something was going to happen. but im ok! still got my finger and can feel and everything. so i will install the tranny whenever i get better. which by the way i just bought some gloves. i guess i need them since my hands are all cut out and bruised.. i guess thats how men learn, when it allready happened! lol! but i was victorious by slipping in the 2 motor mount bolts in afterwards! just gotta tighen them and b done with it. i did manage to place a jack under the engine to relieve some stress to the motor mounts.. also does anyone know if i need a special tool to install the clutch cable to the tranny? i also am trying to think of a way to connect my heater hose thru the valve, since it has 3 openings to it. i know i dont need to route the radiator hose since the engin has 2. i read some guys in thirdgen.org used a manual shut off valve to get a/c.. since we definately need it here.. but i'll think about it more! thats about it! stitches, engines, and 800mg ibiprofin is my hi-lights of the week!! i would place some pics but my lady took the camera...
lucid-WOW i bet your alertness was out of the roof!! lol! i saw a very scarry and pretty dangerous spring compression in you tube.. some guy used.... wait for it.. zip ties.. this dude had a spring almost comprest with nothing with zip ties. the thing was completely coved in zip ties... THAT is SCARRRY!! i never thought a crowbar and stuff like that would work..
monkihead-THANKS for the place!! its kinda cool on insuring their work. sounds like these guys are top notch! i'll deffinately give them a shot.
eric formula 350- thanks for the offer but for some wierd reason i checked some boxes i had full of car parts and all of a sudden i saw 2 more flywheels (used)! i ended up using the good one of the three and got me some sandpaper and lightly touched up the surface.. it wasnt that bad.. i also seem to have an automatic flywheel as well.. 3 of them were a t-56 and 1 an auto. im going for a six-speed
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Post by EricFormula350 on Jun 12, 2010 12:58:29 GMT -5
Be sure to post some pics!
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Post by Lucid on Jun 12, 2010 18:20:49 GMT -5
I got it from a magazine, they dropped the A-Arms as low as they could get them and supported the A-arm with a jack. The car was of course on jack stands already and secure in the air. Then they put the spring up into the pocket on top and into the pocket on the control arm with the crowbars.
Then they jacked the control arm really carefully to compress the spring. Its a little scary, especially taking the spring out because no matter how much you let the spring relax its possible that its under compression and has tremendous amounts of potential energy.
The first time I did it I didnt get the end of the spring in between the holes in the control arm so I had to redo it, but it didnt really seem to make a difference in the ride height.
I would never use zip ties to do anything like that.
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Post by morbital on Jun 28, 2010 1:39:59 GMT -5
Well guys i have been dying to turn wrenches and delayed my deadline cuz of my injury.. All i could do lately was install little things like vacume lines, prep up fuel hose for the regulator.. Little things like that.. A friend of mine will help me out install the tranny.. But i did come up with a problem.. I did some research and people who replaced their k member to tubular are having clearance issues. So i looked and tried to put the accesorry drive together and ended up with that dilema.. 1, the ac lines hit the member..2, the alternator has to be relocated higher.. Which the website does mention.. So all i could see is march selling a kit that places everything at the top to the heads.. And it aint cheap.. I've been looking around and the 5.3 arent compatible to 5.7 ls1's.. And corvetee didnt work as well.. So i heard. Also i had me a nice set of 2003 gto headers but they flare out too much and hit the sidewalls.. So im stuck with those nasty camaro stamper manifolds.. But so far the serpentine system is an issues.. Hope this week i can get started on the tranny!!
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Post by morbital on Jun 28, 2010 1:51:13 GMT -5
I finally got to upload some picks to my cpu and into a website.. Its on myspace.. Ill place my site public so those can see my progress and also i am taking picks of my dilema. Hope i can figure out a way to get my accessory drive working. More research and ideas until im better to use my hands again.
Also i've been seeing some nice 3rd gens here andthere poping out on the streets!! Perfect weather for it too!
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Post by Lucid on Jun 29, 2010 0:12:51 GMT -5
Having custom A/C lines made would not work? Maybe you can supply a picture or a link to a website so we can see the problem. I know Carlisle's can do the custom a/c lines. Edit: Oh I know what you are talking about. The a/c compressor hits the k-member because the k-member needs to be notched if you are going to keep the original LS1 compressor. I was just reading a website where they used a stock thirdgen compressor and lines and condenser that clearanced. Let me look for it. Here is what it would look like: forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-general/1927256-ls1-swap-r4-a-c-brackets.html
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Post by morbital on Jun 30, 2010 14:24:19 GMT -5
lucid- i checked out the link and the bracket looks very well designed! unfortunately i am trying to use the new ls1 compressor. i've tried using the same hoses but hit the tubular k-member. i was thinking of going to some a/c specialists if they can fab up some a/c lines.. that is the only way i can have a fuly functional a/c. if i have a chance i want to hit up a pick'n'pull to actually try out my luck. i did notice that the accesorry drive in ALL thirdgens are at the top of the engine.. which explains why people have issues installing lsx into thirdgen cuz the compressor and alt. are at the bottom. unless we fab up our crossmember. and also i've noticed that the orig. crossmember in 3rd gens sits the engine at the end of the k member.. and the tubular sits the engine at the center causing a bracket for the alt. rather than the a/c comprssr.
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Post by morbital on Jun 30, 2010 14:33:59 GMT -5
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